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Posts Tagged ‘design’

House Cleaning Caddy

August 15, 2010 by stain remover expert No Comments »

house cleaning caddy

Step by Step Cleaning and Organization Tips for bathrooms

The bathroom is an area of a house that requires constant attention. Depending on the amount of people who frequent this area, a bathroom can be necessary to sustain on a daily basis. If your bathroom is not clean, it can be a very uncomfortable situation for everyone.

Cleaning a bathroom is not exactly a moment of pleasure but once the bathroom is clean, it is well worth the effort. Leaving dust and dirt to accumulate for weeks and months is a recipe for disaster. If dirt builds up on your shower, bathtub and countertops, it can be difficult to remove and can even leave stains. Staining is greater possibility if you have more light and colors of tile countertop. Stay on top of doing a little cleaning every day is a great way ensure that the bathroom does not get out of hand.

First Steps … Cleaning Your Bathroom

One ways to keep your bathroom clean is to use the classic raclette. This item will clean all surfaces in the bathroom, including tile, glass and countertops. This cleaning tool is a great way to prevent mold growth. The handle is chrome plated plastic and rubber blade is a stainless steel blade. You can even record the right Classic squeegee in the shower with suction mount.

The squeegee luxury design similar to the classic one, but the handle is chrome plated and polished stainless steel component is the blade and the handle is slip resistant for easy use.
All bathrooms must have a trash can, but if you want out of sight, the door goes up trash on the door inside the cabinet. There is a basket use in the kitchen and a small one for the bathroom.

Organizing Your Bathroom

Clean Room bath can be tedious, but you really can help you clean faster and get the job done right, if you learn to organize the bathroom. If you have the 12 foot chrome corner shower caddy, you can your soap, shampoo and conditioner on the shelf basket rather than on the corners of the tub or medallion shelves in the shower. Place these items on the cart will free up other areas of the real bathtub or shower for Easy Cleaning.

Under the sink bathroom can be a disaster if you do not have good organization. The expandable gray under Sink tray can really put this area in order. There two levels with removable panels so pipes will not be obstructed when the tray sink is in place.

If you do not have room to hang towels or simply an extra storage space for your towels, valet Towel is for you. You can put two large towels on the bar and you not to be worried that switch because it supports and heavy wet towels. The bars are wide and effective air dry wet towels better than leaving the towels on the hooks.

Counters can also easily become cluttered. Throughout the days, weeks and months, the counters can earn tons of points, and the dirt and grime.

If you use the Vanity Stackable Basket, you can put your perfume, makeup, cream hands and other cosmetic products in one place and easily move the cart full meter when you clean the bathroom. Moving item is much easier than having to remove each item individually as you clean.

When you put bottles of shampoo or conditioners on the shelves in the shower or bath, these bottles can leave marks on the shelves of tiles or shower. The distributor is elegant Double and can hold your shampoo and conditioner. The pump unit has a pre-measured, if you do not have to worry about wasting money using excessive amounts of shampoo and conditioner and your shelves will not get as dirty, without bottles.

The sole distributor works as well, especially near the vanity to dispense soap. This unit also has a pre-measured pump so you will not be wasting money. You can easily remove the distributor of the bracket on the wall so that you can fill out the soap. The bracket is attached to the wall with silicone glue and adhesive tape face, both are included.

Having the right products and maintain this area on a regular basis is the best formula for a clean bathroom. Quantity time and effort to keep the area clean can be significantly reduced with a good plan and some reliable bathroom organizers.

Cleaning Supplies Caddy


Tips For Cleaning Rooms

by stain remover expert No Comments »

tips for cleaning rooms
Some tips for quick cleaning of your room?

No idea what this category should be: P You must have P & S advice! You probably have the means to go fast to get on Yahoo! Gars more I can not get the computer! Help how?

I would Simply push them in the closet. :)

House Cleaning & Organization Tips : How to Find Storage Solutions for Any Room


Commercial Cleaning Business

August 11, 2010 by stain remover expert No Comments »

commercial cleaning business
Best Carpet Cleaning machine Heavy Commercial / Commercial?

I'm starting a carpet cleaning business this month and I'm trading for the high quality of most machine looking for a truck that has not come up drinking something that comes with the rod / truck mounts etc etc.

Visit this site:

Commercial Cleaning, Business Cleaning


Cleaning Games Online For Kids

August 9, 2010 by stain remover expert No Comments »

cleaning games online for kids
Any virtual life games?

Is there life virtual game free for kids like 11-14 where you can build houses get buy furniture pets, meet friends, stay in hotels, travel, go to the grocery store like JCPenny, Wal-Mart, feed your animals company to clean up after yourselff friends houses and much more. It should be: no-no-download n 'cost of money-not-install Online Another thing that can not be clubpenguin, Habbo, Webkinz, second life, there is, Moove, wizworld, visit pets, runescape, because threshold that cost money and u download

U HAV canceled many things! I want to go on habbo, cos it costs money and you do dosent HAV 2, download at all! x

Outdoor Winter Games for Kids : Create a Mud Room for Cleaning Up After Playing Outside


Moving Out Cleaning London

August 5, 2010 by stain remover expert No Comments »

moving out cleaning london

The services offered by the end of the tenancy cleaning in London

End of tenancy cleaning in London has been in this industry for a period of time. Therefore, moving enough to trust our services for any cleaning rental, work in or move cleaning. Our services are wide and you will certainly find one that suits your needs. End of tenancy cleaning in London is a company that offers quality cleaning services for your money. The end of the tenancy cleaning in London is not a company that is limited Only Cleaning Homes. We are able to clean various areas, including:

  • Event Venues
  • Hospitals
  • Restaurants and bars
  • Leisure and sports facilities such as parks
  • Local authorities

All staffs End of tenancy cleaning London are trained to perform their functions. Our standards are not comparable with other cleaning company that you may be experiencing. They work with little supervision, because they understand the need to satisfy our customers. We have staff trained in several areas such as:

  • Tile Restoration
  • Plumbers
  • Electricians
  • Manufacturers
  • Wood Specialists floor restoration
  • Home appliances restoration
  • Desktops and cleaning
  • Decorator
  • Stores and Curtain Tailors

A practical approach was taken by the directors and managers of the end of rental cleaning London to measure the satisfaction of all our customers the best possible way. The management team ensures that customers are not left unsatisfied, regardless of their need for cleaning. We enable our customers to give their views on the current employment in order to have everything done for their willingness personal. The provision of end of tenancy cleaning in London and high exceptionally profitable. Reputation we have built with our former clients is so beautiful. It is time for all those who are in need for an end of lease cleaning is to look out for rental cleaning London.

Some cleaning services which are expected by the end of rental cleaning London is such that:

  • Rental cleaning
  • Window Cleaning
  • End of tenancy cleaning
  • Move in cleaning
  • Curtain Cleaning
  • Cleaning
  • Gallery Cleaning
  • Floor care
  • Roof Care
  • Furniture Cleaning
  • Refurbishment
  • pest eradication
  • Cleaning House
  • Carpet Cleaning
  • Laundry
  • sanitation management
  • Chimney sweeping

It Clearly, with our wide range of qualified staff and the number of activities that we are able to treat, we're the best company cleaning do you want your household for you. Regardless of our performance to your work at the end of rental cleaning London is a company that understands the need to have our clients involved in the cleaning process so that by the end of the cleaning process the customer is not always the questions. It is your house and it must be cleaned and put into the form that you will enjoy seeing.

End of tenancy cleaning, professional cleaners, move in, move out cleaning


Ink Stain Photoshop Brush

July 28, 2010 by stain remover expert No Comments »

ink stain photoshop brush


Cleaning Restaurant Floors

July 16, 2010 by stain remover expert No Comments »

cleaning restaurant floors
Where do I report a restaurant in Australia?

I work for a Thai restaurant in Wagga, and im slightly shocked - not only the entire wait staff working under the table – you are paid in cash ($ 50 for the night = 5:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m., not hours overtime) and the place is swarming with cockroaches, absoultely crawling. its disgusting. I went to get a mop in the kitchen to wash the floor toilets, and when I picked it up, hundreds of roaches scurried baby. In addition, there are cockroaches throughout the linen closet, which are also Cleaning Homes cutlery. Added to this, there is no washing glasses – the glasses are cleaned with cold water in the bar and return to refrigerator. can someone please tell me where I can go / contact person to let people know this place?

Call your health inspector — but they could be reimbursed. Then call a local newspaper or television station — or both. Publicit├ę the key to close these places down.

Restaurant Floor Cleaning


Ink Stain Brush Photoshop

July 9, 2010 by stain remover expert No Comments »

ink stain brush photoshop

Printing For Profit in Platinum From Digital Negatives – The Concise Guide – Part 5/7

Part 5/7 – The digital negative.


When people involved in alternative processes started printing with digital negatives, at first I totally ignored the new ‘trend’, being then focused on sensitometry tests, densitometers, pyro staining and so on. Although learning all that has proved to be extremely useful in the computer age too, working digitally gives us more consistency and better results in less time (plus other advantages). I now print from digital files only (except old work of course), directly from a digital cameras. Ditching heavy view cameras altogether (of which I was an avid user for many years) has also improved dramatically the quality of my work and made easier to capture the images that I want, when I want. When I have to print an old image (I have a large archive of 8×10″ in-camera negatives) I generally contact print from the original negative, unless it is an important image, which I feel I will be printing again in the future. In that case I prefer to scan it (I use a Microtek full bed scanner) and prepare a digital negative anyway.

I do not care whether working traditionally, or digitally, or both. I am interested in producing the best possible, long lasting images and to me, a mix of digital and traditional is what works.

That said, let see how to produce a digital negative that can compete with a traditional one. First, the raw file has to be good. If you shoot digitally, this means a top-notch digital camera (i.e. a full frame sensor Canon Eos 5d would be the very minimum), or if you scan traditional negatives, a good quality scanner and software. I use Vuescan in 16bit mode. If the file from your digital camera or scanned negative does not have the resolution required to produce a good negative, and you really want to make the print, I would recommend to blow it up with specialist software, such as onOne Genuine Fractals PrintPro (Benvista Photozoom Pro is also good). Keep in mind that of course this is a compromise, yet I have managed to produce good prints from relatively small files. Many of my customers do not own ultra professional digital cameras or scanners and often supply me with medium if not low resolution files. Speaking of software useful for working with digital files, I would like to mention Alien Skin’s Exposure. This neat Photoshop plug-in “emulates” the look of many traditional films (HP5, Tri-X etc.), includes complete control on grain and also has a nice channel mixer to convert to B&W, plus many other features. I am the first to admit that moving from traditional film to digital and then using a filter to emulate… film may seem absurd, but as said at the end of the day the results count. I do not think one needs to invest in more software to do a good job, although Viveza 2 (NIK Software), is terrific for localized contrast tweaking (and the new Structure slider is worth the purchase of this filter alone).

The last “software” of course is your own skill to use Photoshop to make your images look great. This goes well beyond the scope of this article, just keep in mind that you need an image with at the very least a good histogram (without gaps between sample values) and plenty of details in the shadows (I feel to say this because almost always, when I get digital files from my customers, the shadows are too thin). Here is an old little Photoshop trick to give your images more “presence” in the mid tones and shadows. Load a picture. Duplicate the layer. Gaussian blur the new layer until it is out of focus (not too much e.g. about 10/15 pixels for an 8×10″ 400dpi image). Double click the blurred layer to get the Layer Style window. Select Blend Mode: Multiply. Opacity around 60% (you will play with this setting later). Go to the first of the two grey gradient lines at the bottom of the window. Alt-click (on a PC, I do not know on a Mac) the left white pointer to detach it from the right one and slide it to the left, to your taste. Now slide a bit to the left the other white pointer too keeping an eye on the highlights. What we are doing here is having the blurred image multiplied on the background layer in the mid tones and shadows only. Now click OK and in the layers window you can play around that 60% Opacity that we set earlier. Slide around it to see the difference. Use this technique with the greatest moderation because of course we are introducing some blurring in the image.

Two last things about working digitally, before we talk about the platinum curves. First, with digital negatives we have the opportunity to improve the original image, with cropping, dodging, burning and so on, but we can also enhance it a bit with some special effects. I would recommend, however, to use special digital techniques carefully and with moderation, i.e. without making drastic changes to the original image. After all, we are working with an almost two centuries old process which certainly deserves all our respect!

Second thing, in platinum you can print everything, not necessarily photographs. For example, because of its extraordinary permanency, I have often being asked to print even important documents. Or you can print painting reproductions, completely computer generated landscapes such as those made with Vue or Terragen and so on. Endless possibilities and fun.

Photoshop and curves.

You need to make a step wedge. In Photoshop, create a new image 4×5″ at 360 dpi (this resolution is the recommended resolution to print all our digital files). Marking six columns and nine rows will create 54 squares. Number them from 00, 02, 04… to…98, 100 (you will leave three squares unused). Then fill each square with black in the respective density, i.e. 0% (white), 2% (very light grey) up to full black (100%). Please check with the eyedropper in Photoshop that the numbers truly reflect the indicated density, then, invert and flip the image. Now insert a sheet of 8,5×11″ Pictorico OHP in your printer to print the wedge. Make a new larger Letter size image same resolution as the wedge and paste the wedge in the top left corner as a new layer, so not to print it in the dead center of the Pictorico sheet, this way you will save some space for further tests.

For years the printer I used to print my negatives was an Epson R1800 with ultrachrome inks, so your settings may vary depending on the printer you have, but if you use any Epson with ultrachrome inks they should be very similar to mine. I have recently switched to an Epson Stylus Pro 3880 without any change in my curve. With Epson printers and Windows Vista, this is the procedure: choose Edit/Color settings and notice the settings. In my case Gray gamma is 2.2, please note that if you make your test with a gamma and then change it in the future it will make a difference. Click File/Print with Preview and make sure that your settings match mine, in particular Color Management > Print > Document > Profile Gray Gamma 2.2 (every time that you print a negative check that this setting is the same that you used when printing the wedge). To print Pictorico I am using the Epson profile PhotoRPM for Premium Glossy paper (download your Epson profiles if you do not have them yet). Note: some people print digital negatives with a color cast (i.e. orange, brown etc.) to take advantage of the actinic qualities of UV light, i.e. to obtain more density. This to me is NOT necessary and only complicates things just the same as developing negatives in Pyro.

Click OK and in the Epson panel make sure that everything matches, i.e. Premium photo paper glossy, Photo RPM quality, etc. If you do not use an Epson, try the best photo quality settings on glossy paper for your printer. Also make sure that the color management is obviously ICM. After printing the first wedge you can duplicate the layer, shift it to another quadrant in the Letter size image, delete the first layer which you have already printed, and re-insert the same sheet of film in order to print the wedge again changing the printer settings, for example I have different glossy paper profiles in my computer and I have tested them all with different setting such as Photo, PhotoRPM etc. Our goal is to obtain the maximum density your printer is capable of. If you have a densitometer and a calibrated wedge you can check the density. In my case, printing pure black on Pictorico gives me the same density as wedge #14 on my 21-step calibrated Stouffer wedge. Step#14 is a 2.00 density which is plenty. If you do not own a densitometer you can make a quick visual test: in normal lighting conditions, lay down the wedge on some black text written on the back of a Pictorico envelope, you should not be able to see the text at all under squares # 00-10, and very faintly through square #12.

After printing the same wedge – if you want – up to four times (of course you should take note of the settings maybe writing them down on the Pictorico sheet itself with a marker) we are going to coat some paper and make our first print.

If you have built your UV unit similar to mine, your printing time should be around 4 minutes. Coat the paper with pure palladium and one drop of 2.5% Na2 and expose the sheet for this time (as said earlier if you want to standardize your printing with one drop of 5% Na2 you can, just do it now and do not change it anymore). Develop, clear, wash and dry and you are ready to assess your first “print”. The procedure is quite straightforward: notice on the print the first square that is not pure white and write down its number, the same for the first one which is not pure black. These are our limits when preparing out images, or in Zone system terms, these are your Zone IX and I. These two zones as said are the limits but please keep in mind that you have to shift the zones one stop to get useful details in the print (e.g. Zone VIII and Zone II, the lightest and the darkest zones in the texture range). To easily find these zones, I usually cut a corner from the print and punch two holes, one in the black brush strokes and the other in the clear paper. I then pass over the squares to compare the densities. Please do this in normal lighting conditions, not under a strong light to see better.

In my case, and hopefully in a similar way in your tests, I got Zone IX = ~8/9% and Zone I=~78% with a 4 minutes exposure. Why I am happy with these results. Because I have several pure white and pure black squares above and below this range, which means that my time is correct as well as my contrast. If you do not, for example if the 0% square is not white but slightly darker than the paper outside the brushed area it means (assuming that the print has cleared well) that your time is too long (or there is a problem printing your negative i.e. not enough density). Conversely, if none of your blackest squares are not as black as the brushed borders your time is too short. Especially with pure palladium the brush strokes should be real black, like ink. Lower the light panel if they are not. If you have built the exposure unit as suggested, you can raise or lower the light panel to correct the timing, being careful to stay around four minutes (remember that if you double the distance, the light received will be four times less). Only one stop more is already eight minutes, two stops are 16 and so on, and this is not convenient when printing for business. Conversely keeping the UV tubes too close to the paper would give unpractical short times (for dodging etc.) and probably would show light stripes from the tubes on the print.

I would stick to this test in pure palladium for now. Of course, should you decide to go for a classic 50/50 solution with platinum, for example, you will have to repeat the test with this mixture (same thing if you plan to print with different papers).

Now back to Photoshop to create your own printing curve. Load your favourite grey scale image, a landscape, a portrait etc. with good tonality, plenty of detail in shadows and highlight, like my lake in the next page for example. Go over the image with the eyedropper, for example on shadows where you still want good details. Photoshop will probably indicate a value of 80% or more. But by checking the printed wedge you can see that 80% will print almost pure black, so this value needs to be tweaked. Likewise pass over well detailed highlights, the reading will be too low, such as 30%, while you know that your Zone VII is around 10%. So the next thing to do is to apply a curve to the image to match the palladium curve in the darkroom. Create a new Curve Adjustment Layer. Basically as a starting point you just grab the central part of the curve, which of course is a flat line (from top right, shadows, to bottom left, highlights) to start with, and pull to the right, adding control points to keep it smooth. Keep the Curves window open and click over the same highlights as before and notice the two values in the Curves window, Input and Output. As you can see the 30% reading has now become probably a 15%, similar change has happened with the shadows.

The curve will resemble a sort of an S (do not move the control points at the two vertices). The curve is obviously only a starting point. To tweak your own curve you just keep an eye on the wedge and another on the image, and slightly shift the points on the curve to match the wedge. Basically if, for example, you have a photo of a beach and the sand falls on Zone V, you can first check you reference (the printed wedge) and see that, let’s say, your Zone V is 30%. You click the eyedropper on the sand (be sure to right-click the eyedropper and pick the 5×5 pt average reading) and check that Output is around 30% in the Curves windows. If it is not, shift the curve’s points accordingly. Of course, if you have chosen a well balanced image, you do not have to do this with every image that you will be printing. This is done only once and that will be your own curve. You should repeat the procedure for different mixtures of platinum and palladium, or when changing paper, or printer, or with another contact printing process – but I prefer this approach rather than giving you different curves for pt, for pd, or for different printers on the market (I could not anyway). This way you will have to spend some time working at your own curve(s), but just think of the power in you hands: Ansel Adams was limited to place the shadows on Zone III or IV and develop to get a decent Zone VIII or IX. You, up to a certain limit, can place all the ten zones almost wherever you want! I usually re-print my wedge (both negative and in pt-pd) every six month, to make sure that my procedures are still correct. For example my wedge is now slightly darker than the first I printed years ago, probably because of the UV lamps aging.

Now when you are happy with your curve, click OK, then click again the fourth icon in the Layers window and pick Invert. Finally, click Flip Canvas Horizontally to mirror the image and print on Pictorico in the very same way as you printed the wedge. You can now print the negative as before and, if everything has been done correctly, almost certainly you will get a print that will look very similar to the one on the screen. As said earlier, from now on all your prints in palladium will print with the same time and the same contrast, provided that you spend some time at the computer to get a good negative. Sometimes, you may get a print that is not what you wanted because it does not look similar to the computer image, for example because the shadows are too thin. In this case it is easy to go back to the computer and tweak the curve a bit to give more details to the shadows. Then print the negative again. Since there is little control in the darkroom (because we are printing with as little contrast agent as possible), making a new negative is almost always more convenient. Of course, please always keep in mind that you are trying to match a transmitted light image on the PC with a reflected light subject, a print on watercolor paper which is obviously 100% matte. As said earlier, if you are coming to pt-pd from an high contrast printing process such as silver for example, please consider that here the contrast will be lower, the darkest shadows will be lighter, the tonal scale will be longer. If you like very contrasty and punchy images I think that platinum-palladium is not an appropriate medium.

Assuming that your first print satisfies you, after drying and flattening it, it is time to pass to the final part of the process, spotting and mounting, which will be discussed in Part 6/7.


House Cleaning Logos

July 8, 2010 by stain remover expert No Comments »

house cleaning logos
I need a catchy slogan for my business House Cleaning Business?

I work with people with less upscale homes (upscale) and I am now name already and has a sense of high end homes, elegance, etc.. but I can not go out with a catchy slogan that can go with it or an idea for a logo too. Everyone has a creative mind please help me .. suggestions .. Glady ideas will be appreciated. Thank you for your time.

How about, "House cleaning with a 4 star hotel."

An Introduction to Quoakle – the graphical directory


Good Cleaning Jobs

by stain remover expert No Comments »

good cleaning jobs
Winclear program does do a good job of cleaning?

computer, navigation sites and free space?

I have cable internet which uses Mcafee Internet Security Suite, and before I got it free with my service I used to pay for it all year. Anyway, McAfee has built into a program thats called Shredder, which completely removes the program from your computer and free up space. im not familiar with winclear.

[mage lang="en|fr|en" source="youtube"]good Cleaning Jobs[/mage]